There is just something about gold watches. Regardless of what people say, there is always an appeal with these ringing watches that sets them apart from the rest.
Gold watches don’t always have to be loud. Along with rose / rose gold and white gold, these watches can also be quite subtle and mellow. In fact, the warm hues of a rose gold / rose gold watch are quite stunning, and we think it works great without risking looking too ostentatious. The same is true for white gold, although some collectors find the extra price not worth it, as they “look” like stainless steel watches.
Anyway, in today’s article we will look at this kind of watches. There are currently a handful of all-gold watches on the market, catering to the whims and fancies of the wealthy. For this column, we’ll take a look at some of our favorites. They come from different brands, with different philosophies and approaches in this regard.
So what have we selected? Let’s find out!
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 116595RBOW) “Arc-en-ciel”
We begin the article with a rather iconic watch, synonymous with wealth: the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, in full Everose gold and a brilliant-set (Ref. 116595RBOW), nothing less.
This particular watch, called “Rainbow”, is perhaps one of the most interesting pieces in the range. The watch features a series of baguette-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradient. The challenge here is to find a series of sapphires that follow the colors of the rainbow, in the form of a gradient. The execution here is impeccable, which creates an incredibly spectacular result.
There aren’t many watches like the “Rainbow”. It is well executed, and in a tasteful manner too. The price for this part is on request, and for someone looking to splurge on a watch, the 116595RBOW certainly deserves serious consideration.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 / 1R-001
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is a piece that we no longer present.
In recent years, there seems to be a huge interest in this watch designed by Gerald Genta. The rounded octagonal case is an icon without a doubt, and the exclusivity makes it one of the most sought-after pieces on the market today.
With the stopping of the stainless steel-based Nautilus model (without the one with the olive green dial), the 5711 / 1R – in rose gold – is perhaps the best chance to own a Nautilus in its simplest form. We actually love this combination, and it certainly makes the Nautilus a bit more special.
The 5711 / 1R is priced at S $ 78,000. It’s a great watch, and the warm hues of rose gold certainly bring out the class of the Nautilus. Frankly, between this one and the stainless steel model on the used market, we prefer the 5711 / 1R – especially if you’re paying a huge premium for the stainless steel variant.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon
After the Nautilus, we have another competitor of the “Holy Trinity”. Presentation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon.
The third generation of Overseas is one of the best we’ve seen. Since its introduction in 2016, we’ve seen the brand launch a slew of complications to appeal to collectors. The tourbillon, a staple of any high-end watch manufacturer, was installed on the Overseas in 2019.
The 42.5mm watch is already stunning to begin with, but the inclusion of the tourbillon definitely takes it to another level. Featuring the brand’s signature Maltese Cross, the tourbillon is nicely finished with a black polish and inward tilt. The latter is particularly rare, given the challenges of getting those hard-to-reach angles and finishing them to the highest possible quality. Vacheron Constantin had certainly done a remarkable job here.
All of these goodies certainly come at a price – S $ 235,000, in the case of this rose gold Overseas Tourbillon. Its price is one thing, but frankly the watch represents the pinnacle of the tourbillon sports watch category. Nothing else comes close.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Frosted Gold
To complete the trio of “Holy Trinity” we have the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold chronograph.
The Royal Oak is a staple in the luxury sports watch category – after all, it was this collection that pioneered and invented this terminology in 1972. Its octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet are unmistakable. However, in 2017, Audemars Piguet went further by launching the “Frosted Gold” treatment in the Royal Oak watch line.
The “Frosted Gold” finish aims to make the watch shine, but without the diamonds. This is achieved through the “Florentine” technique, in which the gold is beaten with a diamond-tipped tool to create tiny indentations on the surface. The end result is breathtaking, especially when contrasted with the smooth, polished bevels on the edges of the watch.
Paired with an intriguing mauve ‘Grande Tapisserie’ mauve dial, this Royal Oak Chronograph is an interesting option that gives other Royal Oaks a rather ordinary look. The white gold watch is priced at S $ 88,700 and will be limited to a production of 200 pieces.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
It’s no secret that we are big fans of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo series. The stylistic design elements, combined with a high-quality finish, make the watch a rather compelling option.
The highlight of the 40mm timepiece is its architecture, with its original DNA courtesy of the late Gerald Genta. Here, the watch has an extremely angular structure, with straight edges and parallel lines giving the watch its geometric position. Circular sapphire crystal and an octagonal dial complete the look. It really is a very interesting piece.
Beyond its design, the movement of the watch is also a marvel. While the BVL 138 is only 2.23mm thick, it has a 60-hour power reserve and the thinnest Anti-Shock / Kif / Incabloc system ever developed. It also has a platinum micro-rotor, as well as several finishing techniques.
The whole is just amazing. We love what the watch offers and think it is very versatile as well. The rose gold version is priced at S $ 61,100, and we recommend this piece to any collector looking to splurge on an incredible piece that is bursting with substance and finesse.
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition
We complete the article with an extraordinary Speedmaster: Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition.
The watch, as its namesake suggests, was produced to commemorate the special occasion when humanity took its first step on the moon 50 years ago. Based on the rare BA145.022, it follows the brand’s first numbered-edition commemorative coin with an almost faithful reproduction – with an all-gold case and dial (Moonshine gold, for this variant), as well as a Distinctive burgundy bezel. This watch also features the new caliber 3861, which can be enjoyed via the unique open case back on the back of this timepiece.
All of this comes at a hefty price tag, and in this case the watch retails for CHF 32,000 (around S $ 47,250). This is certainly a princely sum for a Speedmaster, but in comparison to other all-gold watches that we have presented, it is significantly more accessible than the others. This is indeed a very special piece, and one that towers over just about all other Limited Edition Speedmasters easily.
There is just something about gold watches. While there are a few slightly negative preconceptions about them, we hope this article has proven otherwise. These watches work great with precious metals, and some of them are perhaps less ostentatious than they appear, even with a gold case and bracelets.
It is indeed very difficult to select our favorite among these six pieces. Each of them has its merits, but for us, maybe the Overseas and Octo Finissimo are our top picks from the selection. We believe these two pieces are very versatile and are great additions to any watch collection. Special mentions must be included on the technical prowess of Bvlgari to produce such a slim watch, as well as of Vacheron Constantin for the beautifully finished timepiece and movement. They were truly exceptional.
Finally, we hope you enjoyed this week’s article. Let us know your thoughts on all-gold watches, as well as the pieces that you think deserve a place on this list. Until the next article, ciao!