• Tue. Oct 19th, 2021

Time is not so standard: Paragon brings luxury watches to a new generation

ByDiane A. Gomez

Sep 17, 2021

If your average Timex is in the top 40 radio hits, the Bradley Taylor Paragon is a 20-minute free jazz opus from a composer with an unpronounceable name. Most people won’t understand and few will care, but those who get it, well, they care a lot. This small, semi-fanatic community of deep-pocketed watch collectors is exactly who this Canadian watchmaker created the Paragon for.

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“The Paragon is definitely not someone’s first watch,” says Taylor, who grew up in Toronto and studied watchmaking in Locle, Switzerland, obtaining certifications at reputable workshops at Patek Philippe and Hublot before. to move to Vancouver at the age of 30. earlier this year. “Most of my customers have bought a lot of premium brands and want something that has really been taken into account from the inside and out.”

The Paragon, Taylor’s first creation, is certainly that. The dial is made by Kari Voutilainen, a well-respected independent manufacturer of six-digit Swiss watches and specialized features guilloche hand-polished engravings and numbers. The movement is made by Vaucher, another Swiss specialist, and the finesse of its hand-finished surfaces can only be truly appreciated through a jeweler’s loupe. The hands, meanwhile, are made by Taylor himself, who spends over 20 hours shaping, polishing and heating each to achieve a specific shade of deep purple. A nod to national pride, the movement is held together by square head screws (a Canadian invention) and the Paragon is available on beaver tail and salmon leather bracelets.

Taylor makes 12 Paragons, each costing US $ 22,000. While they sold out within six weeks of taking orders, other parts are in the works. “It’s hard to explain what I’m doing,” Taylor says. “But just telling people that I make a few really high end watches every year is pretty funny.” Funny to some, but serious business for those in the know.

For more information visit bradleytaylor.ca.

Power play

There is no such thing as the perfect watch, but Louis Cartier came close when he designed the Tank in 1917. Its shape – a dial suspended between a pair of parallel lines – is about as elegant as it gets, and the pattern has remained relatively unchanged for over a century. The new Solarbeat Tank Must, however, marks what could be the most significant Tank update in years. As the first solar watch in Cartier’s history, this new Tank is powered by a photovoltaic cell hidden under its Roman numeral dial and can run for 16 years without requiring maintenance. It also has a vegetable leather strap, another first for the Parisian jeweler. This kind of ability to evolve while retaining its essential form confirms that the Tank is as timeless as it gets. – JF

Solarbeat Tank Must, $ 3,250 at Cartier (ca.cartier.com).

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Clash of the Titans

Prized for its extreme durability, titanium is currently the hottest (and lightest) material in watchmaking.

SOLDIER

A titanium case gives a luxurious take on a classic military design.

Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto, $ 1,240 up to hamiltonwatch.com.

SUN KING

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A solar-powered movement that automatically adjusts to 26 time zones is at the heart of this high-tech marvel.

Citizen Super Titanium atomic timing, $ 1,450 at Citizenwatch.com.

GOING DEEP

This redesigned titanium diver is sure to make a splash on land or at sea.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer, $ 5,250 up to tagheuer.com.

Spy outfit

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Fit for a watch worn by the world’s favorite secret agent, the official Bond film timepiece, No time to die, is as hard as it is refined.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer 42mm 007 Edition with Stainless Steel Bracelet, $ 12,500 through watchesomega.com.

WINTER WONDER

A textured dial inspired by freshly fallen snow is the star here, along with Grand Seiko’s ultra-precise Spring Drive movement.

Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake, $ 7,300 up to grand-seiko.com.


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